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Galicia (Spain) and the Minho (Portugal) Bike Trips
This link will take you to a little Galicia photo gallery, thanks to our riders. |
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Our Spanish routes, in the Basque Country and in Galicia, have in common the exploration of some of Europe’s wildest, least developed corners, a “Latin” pace, a profound culinary & cultural link with the ocean, temperate climates (the Atlantic generally keeps things pleasingly cool, even at the height of summer), and lush, green scenery. But where the Basque ride is an exercise in sleep-deprivation, the seclusion in which to write your novel might well be found in Galicia — at least until you get to Santiago. Our route along the banks of the wild and beautiful Miño River wanders through the sleepiest places we know, on its way to one of the most awake. The Celts held out best where they were too far away to be bothered, and Galicia fits the bill. You’d think you were in Ireland, except that Gaelic tunes have Spanish words. And there are beaches and sun and viño ribeiro in place of rocks and rain and Guinness. Villages are miles apart, stores are the living rooms of people’s houses, vegetable carts are hauled by burros, and a cup of the local wine is a fraction of a euro. Grape vines cover everything that isn’t forest, including most of the houses, and some of the people. Kale and green peas go with monkfish and salmon trout, wild rivers and undiscovered country go with your biking, all in a land so distant that Spanish is a foreign language. The ride comes out to the Atlantic at the twin fortress towns of Tuy and Valença, on opposite sides of the Spanish / Portuguese border. We end the cycle with two beautiful days along the ocean. An optional stop is suggested in the pearl of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela, one of Europe’s most beautiful cities (included if you are travelling on “Southern Cross”). ¡Buen viaje! |
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The following trips visit Galicia: Atlantic Coasting (3 weeks) Green Spain (2 weeks) |
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Day of the Week
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Description
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Typical distances, in km
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| Our trips which start with this itinerary offer two different meeting times / places: Monforte de Lemos on Monday morning, or Ourense on Tuesday morning. The reason for the difference is that the riding day from Monforte to Ourense is beautiful... but HARD. If you are new to cycle travel, it is not an ideal first day, and you may prefer to meet the trip in Ourense, instead. Conversely, if you bike at home or are otherwise in good physical condition, it would be a pity to miss this ride.... Riders arriving from another Blue Marble itinerary will join in Monforte. |
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Sunday
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TRAIN to MONFORTE from various locations If you are arriving from the Basque Country, you will catch a morning train in Bilbao, with a lunch time stop in Burgos, on the plains of Castille. If you are meeting the trip in Monforte, you will likely take a daylight train from Madrid or Barcelona. Or, you may choose to travel to Monforte from either by overnight sleeper train, arriving on Monday morning. Details of access possibilities are offered in our Access Package description. Half Baggage |
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Monday
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Guests arriving from the Basque Country, or electing the optional pre-trip Monforte - Ourense Access Package ride, will spend Monday in the... GORGES of the RIO SIL Stock up on gummy bears, and set out in the morning, passing through the city, huddled in the protective shadow of its castle. Admire the attendant bustle... you will see nothing like it for the rest of the day. Our route crosses a plain, and gradually climbs through sleepy villages to a perch high above the river Sil. Then we plunge into the gorge carved out by the swift water course, hopefully on our bikes. We reach the river bed in San Esteban, whose station café serves a mean grilled octopus. Something of a curiosity, in that the San Esteban station sees one train a day.... Now follow the Sil's banks to its confluence with the Miño, and the Miño's to Ourense. Ourense is one of Galicia's most important cities, but in many ways it seems as if time has left it aside. Celebrate your arrival with tapas in the old town. If you have elected to join your trip in Ourense, you will instead travel to Ourense on Monday (included in one of the Access Package options). If you choose to travel in daylight (or by overnight train on Sunday night, for a day in Ourense), you will meet with the group for dinner on Monday evening. If you prefer to travel via overnight sleeper train on Monday night, you will arrive early Tuesday morning. |
60 k
optional |
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Tuesday
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The UPPER MIÑO A lazy morning to explore Ourense. Recover from from yesterday’s exertions, last night’s tapas, the flight, grad school, or whatever else you have to recover from. Sip fresh orange juice in the park café, fiddle with your new bike, explore the fortified cathedral and the granite town surrounding it. Visit Ourense's Roman baths, and compare them favorably with your hotel's plumming. That's a joke. We hope. In the afternoon, we glide down the river road, Ourense's pretty Roman bridge at our backs, and leave town along the Miño's south bank. The ride is a short one, to allow us to reach Ribadavia in plenty of time for an evening paseo. The terraced vineyards of Galicia's best known wines appear on the banks soon after Ourense, and will stay with us tomorrow, as well. Ribadavia is another pretty granite town... check out the wine bars on the central square, or the touching old synagogue, which dates from back before Spain went off the deep end, religiously speaking. |
35 k
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Wednesday
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ALVARINHO COUNTRY A challenging day, despite the modest distance. We pedal along the river, past picturesque towns and trellised vineyards. The valley is wilder than it was yesterday, and the villages more isolated. You'll have ample opportunity to appreciate it from all angles, as the road climbs in and out. After a time, the river becomes the border between Spain and Portugal, and we cross into the latter to arrive at the spa town of Melgaço and our inn in the neighboring village of Peso. This is the epicenter of the Alvarinho grape's growing district (as it is spelled in Portuguese). Visit the Solar, a cooperative showroom where you can taste the produce of the surrounding vineyards. Or climb the signature castle tower for a view over all you have cycled. |
40 k
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Thursday
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TERRACED VINEYARDS of VIÑO RIBEIRO and VINHO VERDE The first part of today is spent on the Portuguese side of the river. The Minho is revered by the Portuguese in tale and song for its lush beauty. Also for its vinho verde (“green wine”). This slightly sparkling, low alcohol elixir is the region's most important agricultural product, and the valley has the unmistakable cosseted quality of good vineyards the world over. In the pretty spa town of Monção, admire the church, whose Manueline architecture and gorgeous tile work rival for your attention. Other distractions are the river views, grilled chicken, and old people on the town square who editorialize on the topic of your helmets. Cross to Spain, and into Tui, whose fortified cathedral is famous across Europe. Check out the jamoneria (ham shop) across the way, and sample the elusive pato negro (black-footed pig). Finally, across the river once more, back to Portugal, and to the town of Valença. We are particularly fond of the architectural contrast between the fortress towns of Valença and Tui, which face each other across this border. Valença’s old town is a giant linen market, which is helpful, if you need to buy new towels, or something. Half Baggage |
40 k
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Friday
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ATLANTIC FORTRESSES Out to the Atlantic at last: we reach the beach at the Portuguese town of Caminha. This part of the world was colonized by the Romans, and the villages which line our route are dotted with reminders of their long-ago occupation. Sangria by the beach before a little ferry boat takes us back to Spain, and to the tip of Cabo Santa Tecla. This final outpost of Galicia, facing the Atlantic, has a satisfyingly wind-swept feel to it (and is home to a bunch of tasty crustaceans). Night in A Guarda, with dinner down on the port. |
45 k
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Saturday
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ALONG the COAST to VIGO A last beautiful riding day along the rocky Altantic coast. Stop for a shellfish extravaganza in any of the myriad restaurants that look out on the water. Bayona was the first “old Europe” town to hear of the “new World,” when one of Columbus’ ships arrived there at the end of its odyssey. Finally, into Vigo via some of Spain’s most beautiful beaches. Trade your bike for a train ticket, and prepare to enter a new phase in life. Those completing their trips in Vigo will continue by overnight train to Madrid or Barcelona. Train to SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA Optional, see Access Package. Included in trip D, Southern Cross, and in trip H, Atlantic Coasting. Those who have elected our Santiago add-on, or who are on long trips, will continue to Santiago by train on Saturday (90 minutes) for a final night before flying out from there, or continuing by train, on Sunday. Half Baggage |
55 k
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Sunday
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SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA Optional, included in Southern Cross and Atlantic Coasting. Sunday is yours to explore the pearl of Galicia, a pilgrimage destination since the 11th century. The Cathedral is spectacular, the old quarter and its twisty streets are equally interesting, and the evening animation is, well, like the rest of Spain.… Those completing their trips in Santiago may have elected to depart via overnight train to Madrid or Barcelona on Sunday night, or may stay one more night before leaving by plane or daylight train on Monday for Madrid, Lisbon, Barcelona or Paris. Half Baggage |
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departure dates